Ghazal for Dior: Fall 2010

Hothouse bouquet walking, Jacaranda lips—are these our sisters?
Tendrils of hair locked in pre-bloom caress the napes of these, our sisters.

Legs and arms become stalks and stems—we abuse metaphor, but ruffled
frames and wrought iron ribbons little disguise the bones of our sisters.

Once called goddess of mercy, men came to gaunt whores in brothels,
now they walk Avenue Montaigne, these flower-selling scarlets, our sisters.

Flaming aqua organza shaped into bells, tulle explodes from tiny waists,
faces walled with green plastic shimmer, our asymmetry hidden from our sisters.

Divided, we watch autumn-belying pastel sheathes evoke withered sprays,
store-bought carnations when we want Delores, orchids from these, our sisters.

We cannot see the field beyond cut flowers, the blue meadow of our dreams,
only dropped petals from last season decompose on the hips of our sisters.

These blossoms for the rich, red fever, bloodlust for ire posies reveal
our autistic savant: we cannot excuse such beauty, even from our sisters.

Mixology

So I'm really excited that I finally have the courage to attempt something with which I've always had a love/hate relationship: mixing patterns. You heard me. Throw all your preconceptions out the window. Forget what Mama told you about black not going with brown, patterns clashing, and white after Labor Day. Take a breath, and let's start over.

You can mix patterns. I repeated this mantra to myself regarding my late summer/early fall fashion choices, and you know what? I was actually right. And if I can do it... seriously, anyone can.

Many patterns are loud on their own, but when you mix them with another bold pattern, you often get unexpectedly stunning results. My favorite combination so far has been a zebra-printed dress in green, tan, gold, and brown with leopard print shoes in black, gold, and maroon. When I put it on I thought, "Oh, hell no." But a look in the mirror led to a firm choice. Even I can do this. So I did. And I haven't looked back. Neither should you.

Here is some proof from the runways that I'm not saying this to make you put together an embarrassing outfit and walk out of the house looking like a self-dressed 6-year-old. Take your courage, however, from these 6-year-olds. We can wear what we want. And we can actually look pretty rad doing it!

Until next time.

-A







And some of my personal favorites from the Rodarte Spring 2011 RTW collection:




All images Copyright Elle.

Without further ado . . .

If you need any more evidence that trashy couture is back to stay, I direct you to these photos of Elle MacPherson for the fall edition of Love:



and




As you already know, I say bring it. I read an article today on Jezebel about the backlash against foodies (you can read the article here. Although as with any other movement, the backlash against foodies was inevitable, I think we could compare the backlash against the sophisticated sheath dress to the backlash against sliver-thin duck slices in morel sauce. Fall 2010 runways exhibited lingerie as outerwear, cut-out clothing, and velvet and sheer and leather silhouettes.








Designers such as Jean Paul Gaultier seem to have fully embraced this aesthetic, mixing bright colors with slouchy sweats and infusing global design with a laced-up hooker-chic sensibility. Some have said that hipster-fashion is using Elaine Benes as a muse; I say hipsterism is dead--the next movement will either embrace neo-preppydom à la Birnbach's update of The Preppy Handbook or Christina Applegate's flipped-middle-finger fashion in Married with Children.

Long may trashy couture rule the runway!

-K

L'étudiant

Whether you're taking your kids to school, heading back to college, or ambling down other hallways, know this: the student look is IN. This fall, pull out your flash (credit) cards and study up on pieces that deliver a timeless, studious look at a fraction of the cost of tuition.

Without further ado, here is your cheat sheet for achieving The Student Look (no tutor required):

DO:
Buy a blazer.
Find a great boyfriend shirt.
Get one versatile (think gray) pair of trousers that works for your build and style.
Wear oxfords, booties, loafers, or mary janes.
Embrace the jumper/playsuit.
Find at least one high-waisted piece that you love, and pair with tights or knee socks.
Wear your hair in a straight, blunt cut or a classy updo.
Keep the makeup to a minimum, except for the eyes.
Stock up on cardigans (Fairisle is THE print this fall).
Acquire at least one cute, skirted coat.
Wear nerd glasses.
Find a great shoulder bag.


DO NOT:
Wear pleats unless they look good on you.
Untuck your shirt.
Wear tights as pants.
Overdo the jewelry.
Masquerade in stilettos.(These head into sexy librarian territory.)
Wear unflattering pieces just because they are trendy.
Wear neon or acid wash. ( Enough already, people. There was only one Lisa Turtle.)
Run in the halls.



-A

Proenza Schouler Double-Breasted Wool Blazer



Marc by Marc Jacobs Buzzy Fairisle Cardigan



Burberry Quilted Leather Bucket


Thakoon Ruffled Suede Ankle Boots

Chloé Paraty Medium Tote


House of Harlow 1960 Scrunchie Patent Lace-Up Loafers



Fendi Mini Leather Shoulder Bag


Prada Belted Blazer


Rag & Bone Button-Tab Shirt Dress


Elizabeth and James Shirred-Sleeve Blazer


Miu Miu Mary Jane Ballet Flats

Stripper Wear, Exit Stage Left

And as quickly as it came in, out goes Lucite. Or so I believe.

The clear acrylic, which debuted in the 20s and has long been considered stripper fare, enjoyed a brief renaissance on the runway for Spring 2010. Am I the only one who's still loving Lucite for fall? Apparently not.

Check out these links:

This woman boldly calls for the return of Lucite for fall and winter.

Elizabeth Wellington, on the other hand, seems more tentative about her hopes for Lucite.

In the mid-to-early 90s, I lusted after chunky-heeled Lucite pumps, but as a preteen, my parents considered me far too young to wear heels. I thought of Cinderella every time I saw my sister or mother don a pair, so mournfully, I would pull on my magenta suede saddle shoes and dream about wearing huge platform heels someday. I did catch the end of the platform/clog phase in high school, but by the early 2000s, Lucite was out, but stripper fashion was in.

The popular girls pranced around wearing silk tops with racer-back spaghetti straps and denim mini-skirts. I wore Abercrombie and Fitch wind pants with tiny tank tops and thought I was cooooooool.

It seems that for the moment, the "polished" girl is back. Sheath dresses abound, and Mad Men wannabes litter the fashion killing grounds. I found this change welcome a few seasons back, so why am I hoping for something a little dirtier this season? Am I jumping the gun, or is it time for trashy to make a triumphant return? Give me slashed up, tattered, too short, brazen, loud.

Fine, fashion, go all mature and demure for another season. I'll be busy bringing skanky back.

*slips on a pair of Lucite heels with matching bracelet and lets the wind hit her unkempt hair*

-K

P.S. OMG WANT

Economaccessorizing

In the limping economy my P.I.C. described last week, many have begun to look to affordable "wear-ability" rather than excess. For fall 2010, bright, bold accessories are where it's at.

One look at the runway shows, catalogues, and mailers and you will notice something striking: clothes are often drab backdrops to stunning, bold accessories (like belts, tights, lacy ankle socks, chunky shoes, big "statement" jewelry, shimmering makeup, and yes, even scarves). The popularity of accessories makes financial sense: when bold accessories are paired with old or basic duds, the eye is drawn to the accessory rather than the outfit. The accessory can also make the outfit in some ways. What would Posh Spice's basic blacks be without her chunky platforms or stilettos? Likewise, what would Flava Flav's jeans and t-shirt be without his giant clock?

The focus is not only on accessorizing the basic, but on updating the wardrobe with unique, individualized flair. The DIY community is having a huge resurgence due to this demand. Sites like Etsy are the eBays of fashion, making vintage (read: used) and "reimagined" (read: reused) items chic in a whole new way. Buying from DIY businesswomen (and men!) also makes the buyer feel a sense of contributing to something other than "the machine." This brings me to something I've wanted to mention for quite a while: the concept of Mass Individuality.

Stores like Urban Outfitters, ModCloth, etc. are great for the items you just can't find in "basic" department stores. But what bothers me about these places is the mass production of Individuality. The price tags are high and the items are "unique" -- or at least as unique as an item with thousands of other carbon copies all over the United States and online can be. In lieu of these stores, which I like to call "Mass Produced Individuality Retailers," or MPIR's, why not head to a thrift store and find a truly one-of-a-kind vintage top for under $10.00? Google Consignment shops in your area that are willing to buy your own items -- some even trade! You can clean out your closet and get a new outfit all in one go! [Disclaimer: When buying "used" or "slightly worn" items, be sure to launder these items before-hand: many have been in closets for years, or worse, may contain bacteria, body lice, or the dreaded old lady stank.]

The bottom line is this: in this economic climate, it pays to get creative with your money. Find ways to buy more and spend less. Trade clothes or accessories with a friend. Visit a consignment shop or a thrift store. Buy on ETSY. But most of all, love yourself, and love what you wear.

Until next time...

-A

Drab reflections (muddy pond)

What I've always admired about Jean Grae's "Love Song" is her use of third person--until she slips into first person and then tells the audience--"Maybe it's easier to talk about this shit in third person," breaking the fourth wall even as she admits her own breakdown.

Why Jean Grae? Looking at Fall 2010 fashion, I saw many elements I expected--a continuation of the 90s renaissance, big love for big shoulders, a color palate of chunky greens and bright oranges and drab browns. Cacophony city, but designers paired more introspection than expected with the false exuberance that comes with cautious economic times.

By deep introspection, of course, I mean introspection inside your pants. Deep, deep pants. More ubiquitous even than brightly-colored tights this season, I'd like to introduce you (with my copious Paint talent) to "Pants You Will Soon Be Wearing Even Though You Shouldn't 2010-11:"

Just to clarify, I'll also include an image of what these pants look like on a 5'11 inch, 110 lb woman and on me (5'1, 125 lb):

I did not label the picture, but I am almost certain you can guess which is which.

Despite the fact that the inseam will probably come down to my ankles, I will still probably buy a pair of harem pants. And so will you. No I won't, you say? Well, it depends. On how many seasons harem pants hang around (HAH). I spotted the first pair several seasons ago (Ralph Lauren, I think), and the number of harem/Hussar pants in collections have been increasing steadily since then. Now, celebrities like Gwen Stefani and Gwyneth Paltrow are wearing them. By the time the pants reach the D-listers, you and I will be wearing them.

Still, this post isn't a raspberry nod to the bourgeois fashion cycle of high concept to celebrity to prole to dead. I think those pants are telling us we don't CARE what we look like in terrible pants. We're ready to make the opposite mistake of skinny jeans. Could we possibly be ready to be comfortable?

Nah.

Still, looking at the twined ropes, shredded skirts and dresses, and brights that were somehow muted on the runway, I realized that something is taking shape. 2010, the year where we smashed every honorary trend we could think of together in celebration of the new decade, is becoming. What, I don't know, but if we can say the aughts were just a terrible but fashionable flailing of the arms, we can say at least that we've finally thrust out our arms and found land.

No longer think relations make a better woman
Just for life, I'm pursuing
Growing, but hopelessly romantic still
Tasted weather in the bitter climates
Love the sunshine better
Dreaming of dream proposals
Decent moral values placing higher on my chart
Trying not to have a shallow heart
But battle scars are deep and reaching to the depth of hell and back
Try to give up the grudges
Think it's experience and move from the clutches of sadness
It's difficult
Sometimes I wish I wasn't an adult
Adolescent primetime sitcom star
I've been too far and too much, too hard, for too long
It's still a love song

-K